Dear customers. This is a hard time for us all and i hope you are keeping well.
I have been taking some additional steps to ensure the risk that transmission of coronavirus via the bakery is minimised.
From a hygiene perspective i have done a deep clean in the bakery this weekend and I am following some very clear advice.
I am not aware that COVID-19 can be transmitted in food. The bread sold by The Tower of Bagel is placed in a van which is right outside the bakery, driven to customers, then taken inside. There may be a small risk of the virus on packaging having been picked in this process. If you want to guard against this, please let me know and we can arrange something between us.
I knew i would be very nervous before being on Kat’s Kitchen yesterday, a BBC Radio Sheffield Saturday morning slot, so i spent some time ensuring i was prepared.
I made sure Fran from Regather was available to come too to help the conversation flow
revised quite a bit about bagel history (didn’t get to talk about that)
I made sure i knew the order i was going to do things in (revised this umpteen times!)
I made a list, of course, of all the things i had to make sure to bring
To start with, in this list, was sugar. And then i thought , hang on i am trying to go sugarless, what better time to launch this than on the radio?
Taking the sugar out is no big deal: the only thing is to make sure , from a weight perspective, to make the dough stretch as far, we replace about 2/3 of the sugar weight with flour and the rest with water.
But what about the taste? The use of barley malt syrup rather than diastatic malt powder (which is what i have been using when baking in bulk) brings out enough sweetness , so i will be switching back to syrup.
So. It Tower of Bagel is now a no sugar bagelry! (And challary: challah will be with honey in future (or Agar Syrup for vegan challah)
The recipes i have been using for bagels have sugar. And it seems that bagels are known as a sweet bread. This has prompted two questions for me.
First, what was the sugar content back in the shetl when bagels were sold on street corners stacked on sticks? This is a question about ‘authenticity’ – what is a bagel? Some Montreal bagels you can see on You Tube have eggs, similar You Tube videos about New York bagels contain malt, nether of which i suspect were readily available in Lublin or Krakow or Vilnius.
But food travels and changes. So authenticity – unless you are trying to absolutely replicate the original recipe – for bagels in this case – does not seem pertinent. A bagel is a boiled-then-baked bread with a hole; its constituent parts are the subject of debate maybe even argument.
The second issue is more current. How can we produce food with less sugar and deliver health as well as environmental benefits:
An excess of sweetened foods and beverages can lead to weight gain, bloodsugar problems and an increased risk of heart disease, among other dangerous conditions.
Sugar cane is usually grown as a monoculture. Production in many countries has moved to marginal areas removing natural rainforests, mangroves and other sensitive environments, Cane sugar has been responsible for reduced wildlife biodiversity, polluted rivers and seas, eroded fertile soils, careless use of pesticides and fertilisers, poor management of irrigation, air pollution from burning cane, and damage to coral reefs such as the Great Barrier Reef. The processing of sugar cane has also been shown to be very polluting, especially in poorer countries.
So, two issues emerge. Removing the sugar from the bread is simple enough, though i am not sure about its impact on the fermentation process and the final taste and texture. This needs to be discovered.
In addition, baking commercially, the process in the bakery is designed to ensure the bagels are baked in a certain time, that a certain number fit on a tray and have a certain pre-bake weight. This seems to present a problem so that the recipe is adjusted to retain efficiency as well as for the correct water content levels
Even so, I am going to work towards removing as much sugar as possible from most varieties so that by the end of the year there will be a sugarless set. And we already have one, which has already made a couple of outings to Beanies, though it needs some work.
I set about making some bagel boards: should i look for some cedar, or will pine do? What weave of burlap do i need? Well, like lots of these things, you can do all the research you like but it seems to be simply a matter of getting started and seeing what happens.
I chose some pine conveniently stored in my garage and bought some burlap from Whaleys in Bradford that would seem tough enough to deal with the oven. (Jute role is more for hemming and seems fragile) .
With the boards made i went down to the Abbyedale Road Nether Edge Pizza shop and met an enthusiastic Theo and Somerset. Theo is clearly an expert on the oven and, as i would find out, holds no fear in putting his hands in.
Preparing the bagels is no different of course : i had prooved them in the fridge beforehand, a bit shorter than ususal for practical reasons, and they are boiled cooled and then set on the boards, not oven trays.
So then to the key thing: the oven.
What was not clear to me before is that the oven has clear heat gradients – pizzas are placed first at the back and then gradually brought forward, Theo told me. But this flexibility is not possible with bagels. The idea is to place them top down on the boards , flip them after some minutes (how many will depend on the oven) so that the bottoms are on the stone and the tops face up.
Last night we had the oven too hot and this clearly showed that the for the first batch the crust formed too quickly and left a doughy bread. The second batch were better. Maybe the next batch better still. Watch this space!
Summer baking it was blast
I had some bread, proofing so fast
I made some bagels with sesame seeds
They split their crust like shelling peas
Summer days so hard to bake
Oh oh – from night to daybreak
This is the first change of season in the new bakery. I have been amazed at how the flour is no longer cool but warm to the touch. How the dough is warm coming out the mixer and already feels airy. And with increased demand (cannot knock that!) this variation makes it hard getting the product absolutely right each time.
I imagine that in big manufacturers where they don’t really bake the bread (:>) they have control of the environment: heaters, air conditioners, humidity injectors and hi tech proofing cupboards.
So in my bakery the only tech i have is my own biological feedback system : my brain and my eyes and they don’t work so well some days.
The problem does not come from leaving a single mix longer to proove or shorter, though that is part of it. But more how can further mixes be done in tandem so that the bakery is as efficient as possible?
Whereas before i could do all my mixing and be confident that the first batch would be ready to shape by the time the mixing has stopped, the warmer weather means i have to mix two or maybe three batches then shape; then resume mixing any further batches after this.
It can feel disturbing to change a routine: the routine represents control, long worked for in the early hours, and is also a guarantee of quality – ‘if i do this then this then this, the quality is assured’. But it is also exciting, a new problem to wrestle with, a new challenge and once sorted, renewed confidence that the process can change and the bagels still be as good.